Friday, November 18, 2005

Beggars and Charity in the Argentine manner

Unlike Tijuana, where the beggars bring their tired children to peep "chiclets" at me like fragile,
homely nestlings or flaunt their disabling cataracts and birth defects on the street,
the beggars on the way to Plaza Dorrego are beautiful magical creatures
that will greet you from another world for spare change.

A crowned and veiled Madonna on a pedestal,
all white lace, glitter and pearls suddenly comes to life to bend down and whisper
blessings and admonitions in the ear of a child holding her papa's hand.
A sad eight foot tall Charlie Chaplin holds out his bowler
and waits for some one to pay him to play with his cane.
Of course there is a Gardel with his guitar slung across his back and another,
an old Delilah with torn fishnet stockings and faded red plastic rose.
She was here last time we were here my friend tells me.

We are going to the flea market in Plaza Dorrego
past windows of elegant antique stores
filled with the remains of dented opulence and pawned homeless heirlooms.
For years now, El Indio, his braided waist length pony tail down the inside of his shirt,
has performed in the middle of this square, for free, a show about the history of tango.
His beautiful, earnest partner passes the hat at the end.
All the money goes to help the poor.

Our landlord pays a young, unwed mother to be our "maid"
She is supposed to be there from 8am to 8pm to clean and cook for us .
She makes coffee in a sort of cotton sock thing
and sets the table with fine china and coffee in a big thermos pitcher
then I don't see her till the next morning unless
I walk in on her cooking her own supper
with her toddler sitting on a chair next to the stove.
I have tried to get her to clean the bathtub.
I take her in there and mime scrubbing
and point out the mold growing on the grout
between the travertine tiles.
nada.
I get my tutor to tell her what I want .
nada.
I tell the landlord.
nada.
My friend and I despair of ever getting rid of the
baby-rabbit-size dust balls under the bed
and enough light bulbs
to fill the empty sockets
on the chandelier.

As far as I can see
there is no United Way here
with fancy PowerPoint presentations
and easy monthly deductions
from your paycheck.
The charity of the people has a face and hands
and is done mano a mano.

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